About Mġarr ix-Xini
Mġarr ix-Xini is a long, narrow inlet on Gozo's south coast, at the end of a deep valley between Xewkija and Sannat. Steep, terraced valley sides close it in, so it feels more like a fjord than a bay, with a small pebble beach at its head and clear water running out between the cliffs. A 17th-century watchtower guards the mouth.
It is a favourite of Gozitans for a quiet swim and of divers and snorkellers for its caves and clear water. In 2015 it was the main set for the film By the Sea, which raised its profile, but it remains low-key, with one small restaurant on the shore and no big buildings in sight.
What Mġarr ix-Xini is like
The beach at the head of the inlet is small and made of pebbles and shingle, with shallow water just off it and a swimming area marked with buoys. Further out, rocky ledges along both sides of the inlet let you jump straight into deep water. The water is sheltered and usually very clear, especially from late morning, once the sun reaches over the valley walls.
The inlet has a long history. The Knights of St John used it as an occasional refuge for their galleys, and during the Ottoman raid of 1551, the worst in Gozo's history, the invaders used it to load captured Gozitans onto their ships.
When to go to Mġarr ix-Xini
The inlet runs north to south and opens to the south, so it is sheltered from almost every wind direction, including the common north-westerly. Avoid it in southerly winds, which push waves straight up the inlet, and expect a little chop in south-easterly or south-westerly winds. On days when the north and west coasts of Gozo are rough, it is usually calm here.
Summer weekends are busy with local families and with boats anchoring in the inlet, and the small car park fills early. Weekday mornings are the quietest. Out of season the restaurant closes, but the walk and the views are still worth the drive.
Swimming and diving at Mġarr ix-Xini
Children can paddle in the shallow, buoyed area off the pebbles. Water shoes help, as the pebbles are uncomfortable and slippery. Away from the beach it gets deep quickly, and boats use the middle of the inlet, so stick to the edges and use a tow float if you snorkel further out. There is no lifeguard.
The cliffs on both sides have caves and overhangs, and the inlet is a well-known shore dive, popular for night dives because the water is so sheltered. Dive centres from across Gozo bring groups here, so expect divers kitting up near the shore. Snorkellers will find fish along the rocks and plenty to see in a few metres of water.
Things to do near Mġarr ix-Xini
A restored path climbs from the bay to Mġarr ix-Xini Tower, completed in 1661 by the Order of St John to watch over the entrance to the inlet. It is looked after by volunteers and opens to the public on some days, usually Saturdays, with good views along the coast. From the tower, paths continue east along the cliffs towards Xatt l-Aħmar and its wreck dive sites.
On the western side of the inlet, the high plateau of Ta' Ċenċ has cliff walks, garigue and views across to Malta and Comino, and a hotel lido on the western side of the inlet rents sunbeds in summer. The restaurant on the beach is known for simple fresh fish and opens in the summer season; it is the only place to eat at the bay itself.
Frequently asked questions
Is Mġarr ix-Xini sandy?
No. It is a small pebble beach with rocky sides.
Can you drive to Mġarr ix-Xini?
Yes, from Xewkija, but the final descent is steep and narrow, and parking at the bottom is limited.
Is Mġarr ix-Xini good for snorkelling?
Yes. The sheltered, clear water and the caves in the cliffs make it a popular snorkelling and diving spot.
Where was By the Sea filmed in Gozo?
Mostly at Mġarr ix-Xini, where a set was built on the shore for the 2015 film. Nothing of the set remains.
Can you visit Mġarr ix-Xini Tower?
Yes, on the days the volunteers open it, usually Saturdays. A path leads up from the bay.
Are there sunbeds at Mġarr ix-Xini?
Yes. Ta' Ċenċ Il-Kantra Lido, Bar & Restaurant rents sunbeds in summer.
Is there somewhere to eat at Mġarr ix-Xini?
Yes, on the beach: Mġarr ix-Xini Restaurant.
