Daħlet il-Fekruna Bay

Il-Fekruna, also called Tal-Fekruna, is a small rocky cove in Xemxija on the north side of St Paul's Bay. There is no beach as such: you swim from a concrete pier and the surrounding rocks, among boathouses and private homes, straight into deep, clear water. Fekruna is the Maltese word for a tortoise or turtle.

It is a neighbourhood swimming spot that is especially popular with divers and snorkellers, who use the pier steps for easy shore entries. In 2016 a government project turned an abandoned plot next to the pier into a small public space, with steps and handrails into the sea, native trees and lighting, which makes it a pleasant place for an early-morning or evening swim.

What Il-Fekruna is like

The cove is small and enclosed, with rocky shores on either side of a concrete pier. Boathouses and houses back onto the water, so it feels more like a village inlet than a beach. The 2016 works cleared the area next to the pier, made the sea-facing part of the pier accessible, built steps down to it and added steps with handrails into the water, mainly with divers in mind.

The water is deep right off the edge of the pier, and the seabed drops away rather than shelving gently, which is why it suits snorkellers and divers. There is very little room to spread out a towel, no sand and little shade, and the rocks around the pier can be slippery, so water shoes are useful.

When to go to Il-Fekruna

Il-Fekruna is sheltered from most wind directions because it sits inside St Paul's Bay, which opens to the north-east. The one wind to avoid is a north-easterly, which blows straight down the bay and brings waves onto the pier and rocks. An easterly can also make the water choppy.

On a typical summer day, when Malta's most common north-westerly wind is blowing, the cove is usually calm, and it is a good alternative when the exposed north-west coast is rough. Mornings are the quietest time, before dive groups and local swimmers arrive. Being on the north side of the bay, the cove gets plenty of afternoon sun, and in summer evenings it is a pleasant spot to swim once the heat goes out of the day.

Swimming, snorkelling and safety

Because the water is deep from the start, Il-Fekruna is better for confident swimmers than for young children or weak swimmers. Use the steps and handrails rather than jumping, and keep an eye out for divers surfacing near the pier and for small boats moving in and out of the boathouses. If you snorkel away from the pier, a brightly coloured tow float makes you easier to see.

The bathing water here has historically been classed as excellent under the EU Bathing Water Directive. In July 2017 swimming was discouraged at Xemxija for a time after a sewage overflow, so check the Environmental Health Directorate's notices if there has been heavy rain or anything looks wrong with the water.

Things to do near Il-Fekruna

The Xemxija Heritage Trail, a walk of about four kilometres on the hillside above the bay, passes around 20 archaeological sites, including rock-cut tombs, a Roman road, cart ruts, the remains of two megalithic temples, Roman apiaries cut into the rock and a cave with what is thought to be a small Roman bath complex. The path is rocky and uneven, so wear proper shoes.

At the head of St Paul's Bay, Is-Simar Nature Reserve is a wetland run for wildlife and birdwatching. Other landmarks in Xemxija include Arrias Battery, built by the Knights around 1715 and now a restaurant, the 1839 Xemxija aqueduct, and a Cold War underground flour mill that has been restored and opened to the public. Mistra Bay, a little further along the coast, is another place for a swim.

Food and facilities

There are no facilities at the cove itself: no kiosk, toilets or showers, and nowhere to hire sunbeds or umbrellas. Bring water, sun protection and anything else you need, and take your rubbish home with you.

Xemxija's cafés, restaurants, bars, shops and hotels are a short walk uphill on and around the main road, and Buġibba and Qawra, with many more places to eat, are a short drive or bus ride away around the bay. If you are diving, several dive centres operate in the St Paul's Bay area and can arrange equipment and guides.