About Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq Bay
Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq is a small village on the coast road between Pembroke and Salina, and the long rocky shore in front of it is where many families from the central and northern towns go for an easy swim. There is no single bay with a beach: it is a few kilometres of low rock, pebbles and small inlets right beside the road, broken up by little points and coves.
That length is its strength. Even on a busy August weekend you can usually find a flat rock to yourself by walking a few minutes along the shore. The village behind it is quiet, with a handful of bars and restaurants, a water park and a marine park on the edge, and two 17th-century watchtowers within sight along the coast.
What Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq is like
The shore is a mix of flat limestone shelves, sharp eroded rock and small pebble coves, which give the place its name: Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq means sea of pebbles. Most of it is only a few steps from the coast road, so you can park and be in the water within minutes. The seabed is rocky, with weed and seagrass a little further out, and in most places it gets deep fairly quickly once you are off the edge.
The village sits at the mouth of Wied il-Kbir, Malta's longest valley. At the western end of the shore, on Qrejten Point, stands Qalet Marku Tower, completed in 1658 as one of the De Redin watchtowers and restored in 1997. From it you can see Għallis Tower further west and Madliena Tower inland to the east. The former White Rocks holiday complex at the Pembroke end has been derelict for years, and in November 2025 the government announced plans for a national park in that area.
When to go to Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq
The coast faces north-east. It is sheltered and usually calm in Malta's common north-westerly wind, and in westerly, south-westerly, southerly and south-easterly winds too. Avoid it in northerly, north-easterly or easterly winds, which drive waves straight onto the low rocks and make getting in and out difficult. That makes it a good choice on the many summer days when west-facing beaches such as Golden Bay are rough.
Sunday mornings in July and August are the busiest, when Maltese families set up for the day with umbrellas and cool boxes. Weekdays are quiet, and early evening is pleasant once the heat drops. Out of season the shore is mostly empty apart from walkers and anglers.
Swimming and safety at Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq
Pick your entry point carefully. Look for a flat shelf or a pebbly cove where you can step in, rather than sharp rock where a wave could knock you over. Water shoes make a big difference here, and they help when climbing back out. There are no lifeguards along this stretch, so keep children close, and stay out of the water when the wind is onshore.
Water quality is generally good, but parts of this coast have had bathing warnings after sewage overflows in past summers, including at the dog-friendly stretch. When that happens, the health authorities put up signs on the shore, so look out for them, particularly after heavy rain.
Things to do near Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq
On a calm day the rocky shore is pleasant for snorkelling close in, with small fish around the rocks and seagrass beds further out. Qalet Marku Tower is managed by Din l-Art Ħelwa and opens to visitors by appointment. A coastal walk west takes you past the tower towards Għallis and Salina Bay, and the Qawra Point reef and the Imperial Eagle wreck are a short drive away for divers.
The water park behind the shore opens in the warmer months and is an easy add-on for families with children who are tired of rocks. Pembroke, with its WWII batteries and garrigue walks, is just to the south.
Food and facilities at Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq
There is a beach bar on the shore and a few restaurants and cafés along the coast road, so you can get a drink or a meal without driving. There are toilets near the shore but no showers, sunbed hire or umbrella rental, so most people bring their own shade and chairs. Bring plenty of water if you plan to walk out to a quieter stretch, as there is nothing between the village and the towers.
Frequently asked questions
Is Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq sandy?
No. The name means roughly 'sea of pebbles', and the shore is rock and pebbles. Water shoes help.
Can you take dogs to Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq?
Yes. There is an official dog-friendly beach behind Splash & Fun. Dogs must be on a lead when they are not swimming, and owners must clean up after them.
How do I get to Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq by bus?
Several routes use the coast road, including 222 from Sliema, 212 and 225 from Sliema Ferries and X300 from Valletta.
Is Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq good when the wind is north-westerly?
Yes. The shore faces north-east, so it is usually calm in the north-westerly, Malta's most common wind. Avoid it when the wind is from the north, north-east or east.
Are there lifeguards at Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq?
No. It is a long natural rocky coast without lifeguard cover, so choose a sheltered entry point and keep children close.
What is the tower at Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq?
Qalet Marku Tower, on Qrejten Point at the western end of the shore. It was built in 1658 as one of the De Redin watchtowers and can be visited by appointment.
Is there somewhere to eat at Baħar iċ-Ċagħaq Bay?
Yes, on the beach: Las Palmas Gourmet Beach Bar.
